Oliviero Toscani, a renowned Italian photographer and advertiser, died on January 13, 2025, at the age of 82. Known for his provocative advertising campaigns, particularly for the Benetton brand, Toscani left a lasting impact on the world of visual communication.
Born on February 28, 1942, in Milan, Oliviero Toscani was the son of Fedele Toscani, a famous photojournalist for the newspaper Corriere della Sera. Immersed in the world of photography from a young age, he quickly developed a passion for this art form. Toscani pursued studies in photography and graphic design at the Zurich University of the Arts between 1961 and 1965. This education allowed him to refine his artistic eye and acquire the technical skills that would make him an exceptional photographer.
From the 1960s onwards, Toscani worked with prestigious international magazines such as Elle, Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. His bold style and innovative approach to fashion photography quickly won him recognition and success. However, Toscani is not content with superficial beauty: he seeks to use his art to question society and provoke profound reflection.
The golden age at Benetton
In 1982, Toscani began a historic collaboration with the Italian clothing brand Benetton. As the artistic director, he radically transformed the brand’s advertising strategy. Toscani designed shocking campaigns that tackled sensitive social issues: racism, war, religion, the death penalty, and AIDS. One of his most iconic images is the photograph of David Kirby, an AIDS patient on his deathbed, surrounded by his family. This poignant image raised public awareness about the AIDS crisis, generating both admiration and controversy.
His campaigns for Benetton defied traditional advertising conventions. Instead of highlighting products, Toscani used the brand’s platform to denounce injustices and stimulate discussion. This approach, though controversial, revolutionized advertising and positioned Benetton as a socially engaged brand.
Colors and Fabrica
In 1991, Toscani co-founded the magazine Colors with American designer Tibor Kalman. This magazine explored cultural diversity worldwide, addressing social and cultural issues with a critical and artistic perspective. Colors quickly became an iconic media outlet known for its boldness and unique aesthetic.
Two years later, in 1993, Toscani founded Fabrica, a modern communication research center based in Treviso. This creative laboratory encourages young talents from around the world to develop innovative projects in photography, design, journalism, and music. Fabrica became a creative space where art meets society.
In 2000, Toscani left Benetton after a controversial campaign against the death penalty, featuring portraits of death row inmates in the United States. This initiative sparked a wave of criticism and led to the end of his collaboration with the brand. After several years exploring other artistic projects, Toscani returned to Benetton in 2017 in an attempt to revitalize the brand’s image. However, in 2020, the collaboration ended again following controversial remarks about the Morandi Bridge tragedy in Genoa.
Personal projects
In 2007, Toscani launched a project titled Razza Umana (“Human Race”), an extensive series of photographs and videos exploring human diversity worldwide. This project aimed to reveal the physical traits, expressions, and cultural differences of individuals, highlighting the richness and complexity of humanity.
Throughout his career, Toscani received numerous prestigious awards, including four Golden Lions at the Cannes Festival, the UNESCO Grand Prize, and several honors from Art Directors Clubs worldwide. His works have been exhibited in prestigious institutions such as the Venice Biennale and the Museum of Modern Art in Paris.